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Of Velvet Curtains And Pink Gin

Dancing at Studio 29. Photo courtesy of Sangeeta Chopra. “I’d go there with plenty of four anna coins for the jukebox, and have espressos and hot dogs for Rs1.25 each. Napoli was an open, noisy cafe....

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Community Kitchen

Cutlets from Lourdes Fast Food. A couple of weeks ago, I got an email from my friend Sameer Seth. It said, “Was walking down Bazar Road the other day and saw this gentleman setting up a folding table...

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Our Seas Are Full Of Shit – So What Does This Mean For The Fish We Eat?

Photo: Sheena Dabholkar. About a week ago, a report in The Times of India informed us that every time we wade into the water off our beaches, we are swimming in shit. Not that we didn’t already know...

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Who Made My Mozzarella?

Ricotta, mascarpone, mozzarella di bufala, fresh chevre, feta, creme fraiche and more are available in our city, and some of it hasn’t made its way here from Italy, France, or Greece. Over the last...

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Ingredients To Experiment With

Wood apples. There are a few ingredients that are easy enough to find in this city, but are seldom used. And the ones who do use them, do so in limited ways. Which is a bit of a tragedy, because they...

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How Sukh Sagar Serves Up A Menu Of Over 300 Items Every Day

Making pav bhaji. Featuring 306 items, spanning from a plate of idli with chutney and sambar for Rs55 to a vegetable sizzler “Alfredo” for Rs290, vegetarian restaurant Sukh Sagar in Chowpatty has one...

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MasterChef Australia’s Rishi Desai: “I Want To Travel To India And Explore...

If you’ve been following the current season of MasterChef Australia, which is in finals week in India, then you’d probably place your money on Rishi Desai. The Indian from Kolhapur has been called a...

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Is Mumbai Ready For Modern Indian Cuisine?

Wild berries and lavender kheer at Masala Library. In the last couple of months I’ve eaten dishes like jalebi caviar, pani puri stuffed with couscous, and panko-crusted kheema pao – all at brand new...

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Bottle Service: How Unadulterated Milk Has Become A Premium Product

Which part of the cow’s milk we drink doesn’t come from a cow? Could it be the blotting paper, the sodium hydroxide, the borax, the vegetable fat, or all of the above? A few years ago, I was boiling...

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The Ten Best Dishes I Ate In 2013

Pecorino crème brulee at Le Cirque Signature. It’s been a year of eating at (almost) every new place in the city, and it’s been the year of swinging between hope and despair for Mumbai’s food scene....

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Rajgira Is A Superfood You Should Start Eating Now

In the last month, I have gotten more than a dozen friends hooked onto something they’d never tasted before. They come over for tea and a snack, and the snack turns out to be hot rajgira rotis with...

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Will Mumbai Street Food Become Hygienic?

Photo: Sohrab Nicholson. Mumbai’s a good city for street food fiends like me. I have a favourite sandwichwala; I’ve been going to the same spots for my pani puri fix for decades; and I’m devoted to the...

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Sweet Truth: Why It’s A Great Time To Be A Dessert Lover In Mumbai

Fried sweet ravioli at Serafina. You can go a month or more of ordering a different dessert and still not get bored with the options. You only need to scan social media feeds and food listings to know...

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Exploring Mumbai’s Lesser-Known Late Night Food Haunts

Parathas at Nawab Seekh Corner. Bade Miyan now looks boring, Ayub’s is just average in comparison, and Noorani…well, never mind. In the last week, the places I’ve eaten at, the dishes I have tried, and...

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How Salli Became An Integral Part Of Parsi Cuisine

Most of the city’s Parsi food-serving Irani restaurants are around Fort, and fried foods and sweets shop Camy Wafers has a sound and solid reputation among them for the quality of their salli, the...

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A Culinary Meander Along Bandra’s Bazaar Road Part I

Owner Naeem Jaffer of Jaffson Pickles and Masalas. Waroda Road has had a lot of attention in the last year thanks to its slew of cool new openings. But after a smoothie at Kombava or a schnitzel at...

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A Culinary Meander Along Bandra’s Bazaar Road Part II

Making banana chips at Shree Sai Ram Hot Chips. Lourdes Fast Food’s Gilroy Nunes was talking to me about the neighbourhood in the back room of Safe Caterers over mutton mince balls when he suddenly...

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Sick Of Mumbai’s Restaurant Scene?

“I wish I had your job!” Like most restaurant critics in the city, I am often told this just after I tell somebody what I do. Before they even start their next sentence I’m already guessing how they...

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To Ghee Or Not To Ghee

When I was a kid, on my grandma’s and my mom’s insistence, we’d make ghee at home. Every day, litres of cow’s milk would arrive at our doorstep at the crack of dawn – squat bottles of thick glass with...

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Why We Need A Time-Out From Foodie Culture

What is a foodie? A person who likes to eat? A person who eats a lot? Or someone who talks about food a lot? Maybe a foodie is someone who tries all the new places? Does a foodie have to like...

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